Thursday, July 21, 2011

San Ignacia part 2 : The ATM cave!

Cramer and I had booked a tour the day before called the ATM tour. Everyone we talked to had said it was a must see. It seemed a little pricey at $75, but with such high recommendations it has to be worth it. At 7:15am I'm still in trying to make sure I have everything out of me before I have to sit in a van for an hour. I'm not feeling a 100 percent, but I'll have to make it one way or another. ATM stands for Actun Tunichil Muknal. We board the van with 12 other people mostly from the states and a couple from the Netherlands. After about an hour we arrive at the destination. We first must trek through the jungle before we get to the mouth of the cave. Before we left we were told to wear running shoes or some kind of aqua sandal or shoe, because they would be getting wet. As we trek through the jungle we are force to wade through three rivers on our way. After about 45 minutes we come to a small picnic area in the jungle . We are near the cave entrance now. We each eat a little of the food we are given and save the rest for when we get back. I make one more pit stop in the outhouse just to be safe. Then we strap on our helmets and head lamps. Our guides are Louis and Patrick through Mayawalk Tours. The opening to the cave is amazing, like a scene out of Indiana Jones or some other adventure movie. We will have to jump into the river and swim for about 10 meters.
A ponder for a moment as I often do while standing before the mouth of the cave. What does it mean to be a man? Is it when you have kids? When you are married? When you have a good job? Are responsible? Maybe some of these, maybe none of these. In the ancient cultures boys and girls often had to go through some kind of ritual ceremony that was both spiritually, physically, and mentally challenging. They would have to journey into the place of darkness , the place of fear, to go to that place they didn't want to go, but had to go. In Maya culture they were obligated to go into this cave and present offerings to their gods. They believed inside the cave they would be judge both by their ancestors and gods. They would fast and purify themselves for weeks and months before entering. It was a truly terrifying experience with only torches to light their way. But the cave always represents that place that one must return to, to face ones fears, while dying in the process. Only to be reborn into a new creation once the journey was completed. This was what it was like to enter the cave. This was the experience I wanted as well.






We all jumped into the river and swam into the mouth of the cave climbing up onto the rocks inside. The temperature dropped and the water was exhiliratingly cool. We journey deeper and deeper into the cave as we continue up the river. Climbing through narrow passages and up and down dangerous rock structures. The water is at our ankles at times then over our heads and we are forced to swim in other places. Louis, the guide, has us stop every so often to give us information about the cave and the Maya who entered it. We all turn off our headlamps and it is pitch black, no light. Imagining what it would be like for the Maya is incredible, who believed the cave was a living breathing thing. Full of spirits and monsters ready to judge them guilty if not worthy. The Maya would leave offerings in the form of food, liquids, plants, and even humans sacrifices. Sometimes they would come in with a Shaman who would would help them perform rituals. After about an hour of going down the river deeper into the cave we come to a large rock wall. We now scale up about 35 feet and are forced to take off our shoes and wear only our socks. We are now going to the dry chamber where the Maya's would bring their offerings. The cave is huge with large stalactites and stalagmites everywhere that have been formed over millions of years. There is pottery all over the floors and on the walls. Louis leads us through the massive cave showing us human remains and other artifacts. We walk, crawl, and climb through the cave being careful not to walk on any of the artifacts that are lining the cave floor. We finally reach the last chamber in the back of the cave after a couple of hours, climbing a rickety ladder. In the small chamber are some pots and vases, but there is a fully intact skeleton of a young woman who was sacrificed. Her bones have become calcified and crystalized. I say a quick prayer and thank the Mayans for letting us have the chance to see these amazing things. We then head out of the cave going back the way we came. Climbing back down into the chill of the river. This time we pick up the pace as we wade through the river and out of the cave. Everyone is in a great mood as we relish this once in a lifetime experience. Finally we swim back out of the cave into the warmth of the jungle. Hopefully the cave has changed me, helping me to grow in wisdom and experience. We eat a little more and then hike back to the van. The whole time talking to our fellow traveling companions. After returning from the ATM tour I'm completely worn out. The intestinal bug is still with me even though I managed to make it through the cave tour with out any problems. We end up getting back around 6pm and I call it a night. Cramer heads out with our German friends for a few drink and dinner before hitting the sack. Tomorrow we leave for Belize and go to the Mayan ruins in Tikal, Guatemala.











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